A friend told me recently that he hated his hedge fund job, but that he’d stuck with it for years for one key perk: expensing unnecessarily extravagant business meals.

Unfortunately, running a small company, the money for meals I expense still comes rather directly out of my own pocket. But, as I’d otherwise never pay $300 for sushi for two, I’m always secretly pleased at the chance to dine top-shelf, inevitable check-time indigestion notwithstanding.

This past evening, through the savvy string-pulling help of my uncle, who owns the building it’s housed within, I managed to score sushi bar seats at the recently opened Gari, with only a few hours notice.

Gari, the west-side sibling of venerable Sushi of Gari, extends Masatoshi “Gariî Sugio’s sushi innovation dynasty. Though occasionally poo-pooed by purists, Masa has the last laugh, as he’s built a large and devoted following. Which makes sense, as his sushi concoctions are inevitably, exceedingly good.

From pieces that bend tradition (sesame-marinated yellowtail topped with jalapeÒo reduction) to those that redefine it completely (seared foie gras and daikon radish), his kitchen turns out creative piece after creative piece, with a remarkably high level of consistency, especially given some of the daring and counter-intuitive combinations.

While I wish I could say I’d be going back regularly, the dictates of cost likely prevent it. But, for anyone with a love of sushi and an appreciation of culinary flair, it makes, at least, a special occasion dining destination that’s tough to beat.