Back in 1959, winemaker Paul Gineste de Saurs opened a restaurant in the 17th arrondissement of Paris. The menu was simple, with only one choice: steak frites.

In the years since, the restaurant has grown wildly in popularity, opening several London locations which also reliably draw long lines.

About five years ago, they opened a location in East Midtown. Here, based on the many times I’ve walked past the half-empty dining room in the years since, it appears to have been a more modest success.

The New York location, still called Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecote, recreates the original in perfect kitschy detail, down to the pleather banquettes and waitresses in frilly black skirts and white aprons.

In search of adventure, Jessie and I headed there for lunch. It was an experience I’d highly recommend, yet will be unlikely to repeat.

Once seated, you’re presented with a single option: black-and-blue, rare, medium or well-done. Medium-rare isn’t on the list.

Shortly thereafter, out comes a salad: plain lettuce with vinaigrette, topped with walnuts.

And then, a few minutes later, a small serving of sliced strip steak and fries, liberally doused with their secret sauce. By most accounts, the secret boils down to lots of butter, some mustard and thyme, and blanched chicken liver. While the steakhouse draws loyal regulars based largely on the strength of that sauce, we both found it a somewhat acquired taste.

Finish your portion, and the waitress returns, to dole out the next course: another round of exactly the same thing. More sliced steak, more fries, more sauce on top of it all.

Given the culinary merits of the first three courses, we decided to skip dessert.

On the one hand, Peter Luger need not worry. But, on the other, there’s something remarkably charming about a place that seems like the regular hangout of a French Don Draper. And for $28 a pop for dinner, with bottles of wine priced similarly, it’s a hell of a deal for steak in Midtown.

As I said, I don’t think I’ll be back. But if you’re in the East 50’s and looking for a unique adventure, it’s probably worth the visit. Bon appetit!