Pass(over)able

While I continue to have all kinds of moral angst about online grocery shopping during this pandemic (I’m not in a high-risk group myself, and am therefore just taking advantage of the fact that I can afford to offload my risk to a less privileged low bidder), I nonetheless bowed to COVID worries this week, and ordered a big load of stuff from Fairway using Shipt, the only service I’ve found that currently has even intermittent delivery availability in NYC at the moment.  (Given their business model, it’s worth returning repeatedly throughout the day if there are no current slots, as new ones regularly open up.)

While it’s slated to arrive in a couple of hours (though the delivery window has already been twice pushed back), given the picked-clean shelves of grocery stores, I can’t imagine more than a small fraction of what we ordered will actually show up.  Still, with some creativity, and our already-stocked pantry, I think we’ll be mostly fine.

The biggest questions are around Passover, which kicks off this Wednesday evening.  A month and a half back, when I stocked up to weather this all, I didn’t really take into account the flour content of shelf-stable options, and I definitely didn’t grab any jars of gefilte fish.  So, though my parents have floated the idea of a Zoom seder, it’s unclear whether we’ll actually have any of the ingredients needed for even just the seder plate, much less traditional dinner dishes like brisket or matzo-ball soup.

At the same time, if the point of the holiday is to remember when our ancestors were slaves in Egypt – which, in Hebrew, translates literally to ‘a narrow place’ – then perhaps a quarantined version of the holiday will be as good of a reminder of that feeling as possible, and a success regardless of the culinary details.

Next year, if not in Jerusalem, then at least outside my apartment.

Cook the Quarantine: Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil

To keep the theme going, another favorite simple pasta: a refined and authentically Italian spaghetti and tomato sauce.

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Spaghetti with Tomato and Basil

Ingredients:

  • 28oz can whole San Marzano tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup, 2 tablespoons, and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, divided
  • 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 stems of basil, leaves on, and 4-8 leaves cut into chiffonade, divided
  • 6 whole cloves garlic
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon red chili flakes
  • 1# spaghetti

Directions:

  • In a mesh strainer over a bowl, roughly crush tomatoes, removing seeds with your thumb.  Set aside crushed tomatoes, reserve strained juices, discard seeds.
  • Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, transfer tomatoes to the pot, add salt, cook 5 minutes, then smash with a potato masher.
  • Add reserved juices to the sautéing tomatoes, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook for 30-45 minutes, smashing and stirring occasionally.
  • While the tomatoes cook, heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil in a small saucepan over low heat. Add garlic cloves, basil stems, and chili flakes. When the garlic is lightly browned, remove from heat, allow to cool 5 minutes, then strain the oil into the tomato mixture, and discard the browned garlic / basil / pepper flakes.
  • Boil a large pot of water, salted enough to taste like the ocean.
  • Cook the spaghetti until just short of al dente.  Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta (don’t rinse it).
  • Add pasta to the tomato mixture, along with reserved cooking water and final 2 tablespoons of olive oil.  Cook, tossing, until the sauce coats the pasta.
  • Remove from heat, and add butter, cheese, and chiffonaded basil.  Toss, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.

Cook the Quarantine: Spring Pasta

Jess and I will often call my parents to check in while we’re cleaning up after dinner. And though my parents are usually jealous of our meal, they have little interest in my passing along a recipe. Like most normal people, they tend to eschew dinners that involve dozens of ingredients and an overflowing sink-full of pots and pans.

Still, last night, I banged out one of my favorite simple spring pastas.  It’s delicious, yet also easy enough that even they’re willing to give it a whirl.  In case you’re similarly looking for something to cook while cooped up at home, voila:

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Spaghetti with Rosemary-Roasted Zucchini & Tomato

Ingredients:

  • 2.5# zucchini, trimmed, quartered, and cut into 1″ pieces
  • 2.5# tomatoes (plum or otherwise), trimmed and cut into 1/2″ pieces
  • 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 1/4 cup olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon more separated
  • 1 tablespoon rosemary
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon oregano
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1/4 cup grated Parmesan, plus more to garnish
  • 1/4 cup chopped parlsey
  • 1# spaghetti

Directions:

  • Pre-heat the oven to 450°.
  • On a rimmed baking sheet, mix the zucchini, tomatoes, garlic, 1/4 cup olive oil, rosemary, oregano, salt, and pepper.  Spread into a single layer.  Roast 20-25 minutes, until the zucchini has just started to brown
  • While the vegetables are roasting, boil a large pot of salted water.  (It should be salted enough to taste like the ocean.)
  • Cook the spaghetti until al dente.  Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta (don’t rinse it), and return it back to the pot.  Mix in the final tablespoon of olive oil.
  • Pour the reserved pasta water onto the baking sheet of vegetables, and scrape up the browned bits.  Stir the vegetables and juices into the pasta, along with the Parmesan and parlsey, and toss to combine.
  • Serve garnished with the extra Parmesan.

Bon appétit!

Stay Home

“I do not go outdoors… As far as I’m concerned, the whole point of living in New York City is indoors. You want greenery? Order the spinach.”
– David Rakoff