Troilus

Despite having lived in NYC for more than 15 years, I’d never made it to one of the Public Theater’s annual Shakespeare in the Park plays. I had, on occasion, tried for tickets through their online lottery, though without luck. But it wasn’t until this week that I decided enough was enough, and blocked out an entire morning to sit in the ticket line of Central Park’s Delacorte Theater.

Though the hardest-core fans will sometimes camp out overnight to stake a place early in the line, I had read that showing up at 8:00am – for a box office that opens at 12:00 noon – would at least make getting tickets highly likely. So, early Tuesday morning, I trekked up through Central Park with the dogs, heading past the 70th Street top of our normal off-leash loop, the full mile-and-a-half jaunt to the Delacorte. By 8:15am, the line already snaked a quarter mile along one of the park paths, with people seated on beach blankets and lawn chairs, reading and catching Pokemon.

An hour or so later, Jessie came up to meet us. The dogs having sufficiently sniffed everyone waiting nearby, I left her behind to hold our place, and looped back down to drop them at home, then headed up to meet her once again. She, in turn, departed an hour later, and I tapped away the remaining wait on my iPad, until finally – and just barely – making the cut for a pair of tickets around 12:30pm.

That evening, we headed back to the Delacorte, with plastic cups and a bottle of wine poured into a plastic water-bottle. (Outside food is permitted, though not glass botttles.) Though the tickets had been given out randomly, we’d still managed to end up in the cheap seats – the very back row, only five or six chairs away from the rightmost edge of the amphitheater.

No matter. Because the play itself was truly excellent. I’d never seen Troilus and Cressida before, hadn’t even read it, though I knew it’s reputation as one of Shakespeare’s least often staged, and most problematic, plays. The plot draws from The Iliad, focusing in on a short portion of the Trojan war, with a distinctly anti-Homeric, almost existential disdain for heroes and greatness. And though the play is often critiqued for it’s wide swings from slapstick drama to dark tragedy, Daniel Sullivan’s extremely modern direction still drew it together into a wonderful, cohesive whole.

For the first act, much of the credit for that went to the cast. House of Cards’ Cory Stoll, playing Ulysses as a civilian military advisor, a Greecian Karl Rove in a business suit. Izmenia Mendes’s Cressida, delivering one of the plays most famous lines, “Things won are done; joy's soul lies in the doing,” as a Brooklyn hipster’s take on a The Rules approach to wooing men by playing hard to get. Or Alex Breau channeling a Keanu Reeves surfer-dude into the dim-witted yet self-impressed Ajax.

For the second, it was thanks to the staging itself, battle scenes played out with explosions and blank-firing machine-guns, Shakespeare by way of Zero Dark Thirty. When the play ended, almost literally with a bang, after three and a half hours, I had been riveted the entire time.

Sadly, the Public’s run of Troilus and Cressida ends this Sunday. But if you live in NYC, and you’re reading this before then, I highly, highly recommend playing hooky for the morning, and braving the line yourself. It’s certainly worth the wait.

Over-Caffeinated

Though the city has long been littered with Starbucks (I previously lived across the street from one location, which was around the corner from a second location less than 100 feet away), coffee shops have continued to open around NYC with ever-increasing speed over the last ten years.

In some ways, that’s been a boon for me, as I often do my best writing while holed up in one. I regularly head down to Fika Tower on 54th and 10th, which has a secret back garden and ample indoor skylit seating, a perfect spot for cranking out work.

It’s a bit corporate (though in a very Swedish way). But I can’t quite bring myself to stop at the far trendier hipster-hotspot Rex, which I pass along the way.

Looking back, I can pinpoint the exact moment when I reached my limit of coffee cool. Last year, I headed across the street from my office to Blue Bottle to buy an afternoon cup. On my way out the door, a colleague asked if I’d bring back one for him, too.

The place was completely empty; I was literally the only one there besides the barista. I ordered two coffees. He placed a single pour-over dripper on the rail.

“I’m sorry,” I said. “I must have mis-ordered; I’d actually like two coffees.”

“Oh, I know,” he replied.

And then he proceeded to spend four minutes lovingly making a first cup, put it aside, and then made the second, for another four minutes, with equally rapt attention.

So I was a bit pleased to find this great rant in Bon Appetit‘s interview with the inimitable Anthony Bourdain:

There are few things I care about less than coffee. I have two big cups every morning: light and sweet, preferably in cardboard cup. Any bodega will do. I don’t want to wait for my coffee. I don’t want some man-bun, Mumford and Son motherfucker to get it for me. I like good coffee but I don’t want to wait for it, and I don’t want it with the cast of Friends. It’s a beverage; it’s not a lifestyle.

Indeed.

Homework Out

A couple years ago, workout equipment company Rogue Fitness ran this great advertisement:

Like Rogue, I also support street parking. In most of the country, building out a garage gym is an excellent use of money and space. For just a few thousand dollars, you can set up a highly functional gym that’s open 24/7, mere steps from your couch.

In New York City, however, we don’t have that luxury. And though most of us tend to live in walking distance of whatever gym we join, there are certainly times when poor weather, busy schedules, or just the difficulty of putting on pants becomes an all too easy excuse to take a day off.

To that end, it makes sense to assemble at least a minimalist apartment gym – a few items wedged in the corner of your closet that you can pull out in a pinch.

Here are the essentials:

1. Kettlebell

Using just a kettlebell, you can put together a complete and hugely effective workout program.

Russian strength expert Pavel Tsatsouline, for example, has published this minimalist approach:

  1. 10 sets of 10 kettlebell swings;
  2. 10 Turkish get-ups (five per hand).

Do that 3-4 times a week, and you’ll be in pretty good shape.

I’m a fan of these Rogue kettlebells, which are well-made, reasonably priced, and finished in a black matte powder-coat that makes you less likely to launch one through a window unintentionally due to sweaty hands.

An ‘average strength’ man and woman should probably start with a 35 lb and 18 lb bell, respectively. After a couple months, they could likely move up to 44 lb and 26 lb, then 53 lb and 35 lb.

2. Door Pull-up Bar

While Pavel’s minimalist approach is a great place to start, building a broad fitness base requires tackling a variety of movements across a range of time domains.

Fortunately, you can use your kettlebells for a bunch of other great movements, too, and you can add in a slew of functional bodyweight movements, like the push-up, lunge, squat and Burpee.

Pick up a door pull-up bar, and you further expand the list of potential bodyweight choices, with exercises like pull-ups, knees-to-elbows, toes-to-bars, and front and back levers.

My favorite door pull-up option is this type of removable bar, which you can hide in the back of a closet when not in use. Though, nota bene for CrossFitters, while these are great for strict pull-ups, trying to kip usually leads to some pretty entertaining disasters.

3. AbMat

When done right, sit-ups are another great bodyweight movement. The AbMat guarantees good form, by holding your pelvis in an anterior-tilted position through the entire movement. That protects your back (unlike a traditional sit-up), and lets you reach reach full lumbar extension for a powerful movement across your entire range of motion (unlike a crunch).

You can ghetto-fab an alternative with a rolled up towel, but the AbMat is far more comfortable, won’t move around underneath you, and doesn’t need to be laundered when you’re done.

4. Lacrosse Ball

Gyms are full of foam rollers these days, because self-myofascial release feels amazing. But soft polypropylene compresses easily, and doesn’t smash your tissues aggressively enough to make real change.

When you’re ready for serious results, trade in the roller for a simple lacrosse ball instead. You can position it more accurately to target tweaky spots (really digging into your glutes or IT band), reach places a foam roller can’t (mobilizing your shoulder girdle or plantar fascia), and grind down harder (as it has just enough give to keep you from weeping while using it).

If you have back issues, I also can’t recommend enough a two-lacrosse-ball peanut, which is great for both increasing thoracic mobility and for relaxing over-tight low backs. (I bring one along any time I travel, as it’s the perfect antidote to hours sitting on plane, train or automobile.)

A kettlebell or two, a pull-up bar, an AbMat and some lacrosse balls. That’s probably all you need. For the cost of a single month’s gym membership, you’ll be set to work out, mobilize, or just goof off at home any time you want.

Squared and Infatuated

For years, whenever I traveled around NYC (or the rest of the world), I depended on Yelp to pull up quick hit-lists of places to eat, drink, grab coffee, etc. But in the more recent past, the taste level and discourse of Yelp reviewers seems to have swung down to YouTube-commenter levels. (Relatedly illustrative piece of techno-art: this mashup of the most recent comments from YouTube alongside the most recent comments from Metafilter’s faithfully erudite community.)

Over the same time, however, I started seeing Google search results for bars’ and restaurants’ Foursquare pages. While Foursquare initially launched as a way for people to ‘check in’ at venues (and thereby see if friends might be checked in somewhere nearby), over a decade of use, the app developed an impressive database of reviews and venue-specific tips. About two years ago, Foursquare spun out the check-in functionality to an entirely separate app, Swarm. Foursquare, in turn, became simply a search-engine for places. Based on the quality of the search results I’d been stumbling across, I re-downloaded Foursquare on my phone, and it’s now become my first-pass go-to when trying to pull up a list of spots nearby, whether to find a new restaurant, or to jog my memory about bars I’d visited drunkenly years back and since forgot.

In parallel to Yelp-ing, I’d also long depended on Zagat for more focused restaurant reviews. But once the company was acquired by Google, the whole thing seemed to sort of fall apart. So, instead, I switched over to LocalEats, whose listings of restaurants beloved by local professional reviewers would invariably align with the stuff I already liked in areas I knew well. Because LocalEats skewed towards well-established spots, I also regularly checked in on Eater, to keep up with the cool and new.

A few months ago, however, I discovered the Infatuation. As they put it:

You know the trusted friends you turn to when you need a restaurant suggestion? That’s us. We aren’t “professional” food critics, meaning you won’t hear any pretentious foodie hobnob from us. We also aren’t restaurant industry insiders, nor do we accept invites, comped meals, or solicited reservations. Ever. What we are is a website and mobile app [started] by two guys who wanted to help their friends find not only great restaurants, but the right restaurant to suit their needs on a particular evening. That’s still what The Infatuation is built on today.

With a great new app, The Infatuation has become the second half of my one-two punch (alongside Foursquare) when trying to figure out where to head off to eat.

I highly recommend downloading both apps – The Infatuation and Foursquare – and using them to do the same.

Joe Christmas

Yesterday, I headed to Bicycle Habitat, my favorite NYC bike shop, for a minor repair. One of the repair guys, as he worked, regaled me and his coworkers with a Christmas story specific to NYC, something that he had been told as a kid in the 1950’s in his very Italian neighborhood of Brooklyn:

Sure, everybody knows Santa Claus. And if you’re good, then Santa comes to bring you presents.

But if you’re bad? Well, in Brooklyn, you get Joe Fatinazzi.

Joe’s as fat as Santa, but he drives a green garbage truck, wears a dirty wife-beater, and slicks back his long greasy hair.

And if you’ve been bad, then late Christmas Eve, Joe pulls up, and leaves an old couch on your front lawn.

The whole time he was growing up, the repair guy said, each Christmas morning, before running out to look at what was under the tree, he’d peek out the window first, just to make sure he hadn’t gotten a couch.

Only in New York.

Lofty

Headed out this past weekend to Gowanus, to see LoftOpera’s final performance of The Rape of Lucretia. I always love Benjamin Britten (or, really, early 20th century British composers in general), and I’d never seen Lucretia staged, so it seemed a no-brainer choice.

The opera lived up to my expectations – not just great music, but strong singing, innovative staging, and some good ballet wedged in to boot. More broadly, I was excited and impressed by LoftOpera as a whole. The company strives to provide younger artists the opportunity to perform lead roles in paid positions, while keeping tickets affordable and performances interesting and intimate. As the Wall Street Journal put it, “LoftOpera offers a paradox: an embrace of highbrow establishment pomp as retold by riders of the G train.”

It’s the kind of thing that makes New York City great, vital and alive. Their 2016 season looks excellent: Puccini’s Tosca, Rossini’s Le Comte Ory, Mozart’s Così fan tutti and Weill’s Mahagonny. If you like opera, or even if you think you don’t, I’d strongly recommend checking them out.

Super Moon

Today’s supermoon ‘blood moon’ eclipse, from Central Park. As ever, there’s nothing like celestial events to make you think about the vastness of the universe, and the small, small role in it that you play.

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Good Day, Sunshine

The bedroom of my apartment opens onto a small balcony, with a glass door under a glass transom next to a large window. Because of the unique layout, it’s taken quite a while to figure out a blinds / shades solution that might work. And, in the interim, I’ve woken every morning at 6:00am, to the bright sun streaming in.

Left to my own devices, I’d normally sleep until 8:00 or so, and it’s amazing how much you can accomplish with a couple extra hours to your morning. Bedtime habits die hard, however, and I’ve therefore been staying up much too late (something I’d already been guilty of relative to an 8:00am wakeup) and reliably short-sleeping.

Turns out, four hours of sleep, for weeks at a time, isn’t really ideal. I’m hoping to get the blinds in shortly, lest my life start turning into an episode of The Walking Dead.

Give me Liberty

Yesterday afternoon, on a bit of a whim, I decided to head down to the southern tip of Manhattan, to ferry out to Liberty and Ellis Islands. I’ve been in NYC for nearly 15 years, but had somehow missed that key tourist undertaking previously, and it seemed like it was worth crossing off my list.

I often forget that Manhattan is an island. But as we pulled away, looking back, I felt a twinge of homesickness for those 22 square miles.

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Looking ahead, we could see Lady Liberty, holding court over New York Harbor.

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The hallmark of great design is something that doesn’t just look beautiful, but something that looks even more beautiful in the context for which it’s designed. Gliding by, the Statue of Liberty is an imposing and amazing sight.

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Even better, she offsets the Financial District with impressive balance, particularly considering how much that landscape has changed since 1875.

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Strangely, the statue was least imposing from up close. Perhaps it’s the size of the base as compared to the statue, but she actually seemed smaller from feet away than from across a stretch of water.

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Still, Liberty Island made for yet another impressive city view.

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After admiring for a while, and declining the purchase of Statue of Liberty snow globes, figurines, headpieces, etc., in the large and bustling gift shop, I hopped the next ferry over to Ellis Island.

Ellis was the real purpose of my trip, as my family on both sides (a varied and motley collection of Eastern European Jews) emigrated through Ellis, before settling in NYC.

I tried to imagine what it would have been like for all of them, passing through the Registry Room, where they first became Americans. It kind of made the hair stand up on the back of my neck.

The Registry Room is also where I became a Newman.

On the ride to NYC, my paternal great-grandfather (and the family member, I’m told, who in many ways I most resemble) was still Max Menachem Naumann. He explained as much to the immigration official. Max worked. But Menachem didn’t parse, so the middle name was redacted simply to the letter M. (With a period. Though without standing for anything, apparently.) Similarly, Naumann got Americanized to Newman.

It was through the back doors of the registry room that Max M. Newman headed out into New York life.

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You can find him on the American Immigrant Wall of Honor, a monument just behind the museum.

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As you can find my maternal great-grandfather, Aaron Turkewitz (in whose memory my mother was given the middle name Ann) and his family.

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The names are inscribed onto large metal plaques.

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Which are in turn arranged into a large, gracefully curving circle.

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Like nearly everything else on Liberty and Ellis Islands, the monument overlooked a wonderful New York skyline view.

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Slightly sunburned, I waited in line one more time, to ferry back to my Manhattan home. As the city grew nearer over the choppy harbor surf, I was reminded once again: I really do ♡ NYC.

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